The Shrine of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar stands in the historic town of Sehwan Sharif, Pakistan. This 14th-century mausoleum honors Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, a 13th-century Sufi saint. His teachings promote love, peace, and unity beyond religious boundaries. Visitors experience a blend of history, architecture, and spiritual energy. The shrine’s golden dome, intricate tilework, and vibrant atmosphere leave a lasting impression. People from all backgrounds gather to seek blessings, guidance, and inner peace.
Historical Context: The Saint and the Shrine
Life of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar
Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, whose real name was Syed Muhammad Usman, was born in 1177 in Marwand, which is now present-day Afghanistan. His father, Syed Ibrahim Kabiruddin, was from a Sayyid family from Baghdad. By age seven, Qalandar had memorized the Quran, and by twenty, he was initiated into the Qalandar order, a Sufi tradition of ascetic wandering.
Qalandar traveled around the Muslim world and eventually settled in Sehwan, Sindh. There is evidence of his presence in Sindh around 1196 when he met Pir Haji Ismail Panhwar of Paat, and he is believed to have arrived in Sehwan around 1251. In Sehwan, he established a meeting house (khanqah), taught at the Fuqhai Islam Madarrsah, and authored treatises
In Multan, he met Baha-ud-din Zakariya of the Suhrawardiyya order, Baba Fariduddin Ganjshakar of the Chishtiyya, and Syed Jalaluddin Bukhari, forming a legendary friendship known as the Chahar Yar (“the four friends”). Some historians say that these four friends visited various parts of Sindh and Punjab
Lal Shahbaz Qalandar preached teachings of Prophet Muhammad and mourned the tragic loss of Prophet’s grandson. He helped many people in converting to Islam and was revered by the local Sindhi population. Qalandar died in Sehwan in 1274. The 19th-century spiritual Sufi Manqabat Dama Dam Mast Qalandar is dedicated to Lal Shahbaz Qalandar and remains widely popular in the sub-continent
Origins of the Shrine
The shrine of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, dedicated to the 13th-century Sufi saint, is located in Sehwan Sharif, Sindh, Pakistan. Construction of the shrine began in 1356 under Shah Tughluq, who ordered the saint’s remains to be enshrined in Sehwan Sharif. An imposing tomb was first erected over his grave by Akhtiaruddin in 1356, who was an administrator during the reign of Sultan Firuz Shah Tughlaq. A dome was added to the tomb in 1357. The tomb complex was expanded several times since its founding. Ibn Battuta mentioned the shrine during his travels to the region in the mid-fourteenth century. In 1639, the shrine was greatly expanded under the rule of Mirza Jani of the Tarkhan dynasty. The shrine’s popularity expanded in the late 20th century
Architectural Splendor A Fusion of Eras
- Milky white marbles and cultural-style mirror work The shrine is extensively covered in white marble, glazed tiles, and mirror work.
- Gold-plated main door The shrine’s gold-plated main door was donated by Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the last Shah of Iran, in the 1970s.
- Small earthen oil lamps The saint’s tomb is located under the shrine’s central dome, illuminated by small earthen oil lamps similar to those used in Hindu ceremonies1.
- Courtyard for dance performances/Dhamaal There is a special courtyard for Dhamaal dance performance.
The Urs Festival A Celebration of Unity
- Paying Homage: The Urs is a way of paying homage to the Sufi saint and his teachings. Sindh Governor often inaugurates the Urs by laying floral tributes at the shrine. Devotees offer tributes and ask for the saint’s intercession7.
- Festivities and Activities: The Urs includes the recitation of Quranic verses, prayers, and distribution of food to devotees1. The town turns into a festive zone with activities like fun lands, horse riding, cattle shows, and literary activities3.
- Qawwali: A highlight of the Urs is the Qawwali, a form of Sufi devotional music1. Singers perform in praise of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, spreading his message of love and peace1.
- Chaddar Poshi: The final day involves the Chaddar Poshi, where devotees lay a cloth over Lal Shahbaz Qalandar’s tomb as a sign of respect. Many groups walk to the saint’s grave to spread a green chaddar with Quranic verses embroidered on it.
- Dhamaal: Trance-induced dhamaal sessions are conducted at the shrine37.
- Bazaar: A lively bazaar offers souvenirs, clothes, and traditional handicrafts1.
- Security: Due to a history of attacks, significant security measures are implemented, including the deployment of police personnel and bomb disposal teams.
Immersion in Sufi Traditions
At the Shrine of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar, visitors can immerse themselves in Sufi traditions through:
- Dhamaal Participation: Visitors can participate in the sunset dhamaal, but should dress modestly (covering shoulders/knees) and refrain from taking photographs during prayers. Dhamaal ceremonies involve dancing sessions accompanied by rhythmic drum-beating to induce a trance-like meditative state, believed to have been performed by Lal Shahbaz Qalandar. Men and women participate, though in separate roped-off sections of the courtyard.
- Qawwali Sessions: The shrine hosts evening Qawwali performances in the courtyard, offering a transcendent auditory experience7. Qawwali is a form of Sufi devotional music.
Modern Relevance and Preservation
Planning Your Journey
Best Time to Visit
- November–February: Mild weather (15–25°C).
- Avoid Summers: Temperatures exceed 45°
Safety and Accommodations
- Security: Post-2017, surveillance has intensified; follow local advisories.
- Stay: Budget hotels in Sehwan or upscale options in Hyderabad (130 km southeast)
Experience the Dhamaal
The Dhamaal is a must-see spiritual dance performed by devotees. It usually takes place in the evening after sunset.
You can observe or even participate if you feel comfortable, but be respectful of the rituals and traditions.
Respect Local Customs
Photography may be restricted in certain areas of the shrine. Always ask for permission before taking pictures.
Avoid loud conversations or behavior that may disrupt the spiritual atmosphere.
Stay Hydrated and Eat Local Food
Sehwan Sharif can get very hot, especially in summer. Carry water and stay hydrated.
Try local Sindhi cuisine, such as Sai Bhaji or Sindhi Biryani, at nearby eateries.
Learn a Few Sindhi Phrases
“Salam” (Hello)
“Meherbani” (Thank you)
Fun Fact: The Mohana love sharing their language—ask them to teach you a word or two!
Be Prepared for Crowds
The shrine is a popular pilgrimage site, so expect crowds, especially on Thursdays and during religious events.
Be patient and respectful while navigating through the crowds.
By following these tips, you’ll be able to fully immerse yourself in the spiritual and cultural richness of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar’s shrine. Enjoy your visit! 🌟
